Happy Holidays from Thailand

Emily and I have thoroughly enjoyed our 2 weeks together. We spent a week south India, in Chennai and Mamallapurram, then the past week in Chiang Mai and Pai, northern Thailand. We're both really enjoying the warm weather, food, and great company. It's so nice to have someone to talk to and relate to, both about home and about this journey. I'm so grateful my beautiful cousin could join me here! Tomorrow we fly to Koh Phangan and I start my yoga teacher training program on Monday. Thereafter I'll be in classes 6 days a week for the next 3 months. I'm expecting some friends to visit from various parts of Asia and Seattle. The next few days will be relaxing on the beach and house-hunting for a nice 2bdr furnished bungalow.

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and Happy New Year! May 2011 bring you peace and happiness!

On Being Alone

The only way to start looking within is to be alone. The first few weeks I was alone on this trip were, comparitively very different than these past few days. There were a few days in Shillong that bordered on lonely when I wasn't teaching or visiting villages. At the Sivananda Ashram, there were definitely some lonely days. I was intentionally not meeting people because I wanted to stay in that quiet space, focused inward instead of outward. The last few days, though, have been wonderful. Even though I'm in a big city which is never quiet and the other hotel guests the past few days did not observe any quiet hours, I've really enjoyed the silence and peace that have pervaded Chennai for me. Finding inward quiet can completely change physical and mental reactions, thoughts, and the subjective basis for 'reality.'

That said, Emily gets here in a few short hours and I'm sure we'll be talking ceaselessly for the next 3 weeks! Then my program starts just after New Year's and I'll have some int'l visitors at my beach house, making for lots of social time. I've enjoyed these few days exploring Chennai, eating masala dosai, pongal, sambar idli, and oh-so-good South Indian coffee and chai. I went to a few museums and memorials, walked by the beach, and have had more than a few stares, akward pointing/laughing moments, inquisitive smiles, and kind handshakes. I get to share this all with Emily who will remind me, I'm sure, just how crazy India is. It's easy to forget that when you spend so much time here. She certainly reminded me of that in Korea!

The last few days in India...this time

I left Rishikesh Dec. 5th. It was harder than I expected to say goodbye to new friends. The Kriya Yoga course was a serious self-study and the 8 participants got very close over our 15 days together. After 2 days of travel (taxi, overnight train, day in Delhi, 2 planes, and taxi) I arrived in Wayanad in the northern mountains of Kerala. A Jeju friend recommended I stay with Saji, a beautiful yoga teacher, and his yoga teacher training group. The training is held at a Catholic convent/spiritual retreat center in between some very small villages and surrounded by trees, hills, and friendly villagers. I participated in the 6-9am yoga class, then had the rest of the day for personal retreat in the quiet of Wayanad. It was hard to believe I was still in India, it was so quiet! When I wasn't receiving Ayurveda treatments, I was meditating, journaling, and getting to know the international program participants. Saji and the nuns at the retreat center were very gracious hosts, the food was yummy, and my 5 days in Kerala passed in bliss. Oh, and the weather was absolutely perfect. But once again it was time to move on, this time to Tamil Nadu, the adjacent south Indian state to the east. So Sunday I packed my bag - which is getting heavier every place I go - and took another taxi, bus and overnight train to Chennai. I'll be here for 2 more days before meeting my cousin, Emily, at the airport Thursday night. Chennai is a busy Indian city, as I expected it to be, but the people are extremely friendly and I'm enjoying a little alone time and exploration. Plus it's the first time in 2 months that I've had to find my own meals! Emily and I have a week in Tamil, then off to Thailand to start the next part of my journey. I've actually spent very little time alone since I started this trip on August 26th, and that trend will continue with some good friends coming to stay with me in Koh Phangan throughout my 3 months there.

There is no way to describe this trip in a blog. I know the little bits and pieces I'm writing here and there are just a tiny percentage of the actual experience. Plus I'm not so diligent on picture uploading. I'm planning to start a book in the next 6 months of so about these years of travel but until then you'll have to put the pieces together yourself or ask me about specifics if you're interested. Thanks for reading!

Non-attachment

Non-attachment is a big part of what I'm working on right now. In yoga, non-attachment (sometimes called dispassion) is a very pivotal point. What does that mean? Complete detachment from life? From loved ones? From daily conveniences? In my experience, it's two things. The first is learning to be detached from the desires of the ego, the part of our mind that is constantly being driven by attachments and aversions, likes and dislikes, wanting and avoiding. The second is becoming detached from the fruits (results, outcomes) of action. It's okay to have a preference for the outcome, but being non-attached means staying calm no matter the result. On the bigger picture, this means being open to what life presents and trusting that your steps are always being led in the best direction. It also means being aware of every moment and of why our mind is leading us this way and that, because the ego craves/avoids something or because we're in line with the true nature of our Self? To figure out the difference, one needs to cultivate an awareness of every moment, every breath, and the turning of the mind. You can start with this breath and this thought right now.

Let's take, for example, hot showers. What I've found out about myself is that, I can remain perfectly fine with no hot showers** for, say 4 weeks, but after a while I realize that my preference would be for a hot shower. This morning I asked a friend to shower in their room so that I could have a hot shower. Needless to say, it was divine. So in this situation, non-attachment means being okay with not having a hot shower and cultivating equanimity for my current situation but at the same time realizing that my preference would be for a hot shower and doing what I can to make it a reality. I love being in India and traveling in general, and I realize that there are sacrifices to be made in certain situations. However, if I can have a hot shower I will take full advantage knowing how happy it makes me.

**Note: I have had hot water by the bucketful in many places and cold showers from a shower head, just not the combination of hot water from a shower head. It's not that I haven't showered in a month. And I wash my feet twice-daily which is a necessity in most of India.

Ahsram 2

It's been almost a week at Parmarth Niketan Ahsram in Rishikesh. The Kriya Yoga course is really fantastic, great instructors and fellow participants. Save for a little back trouble (lots of sitting and new asana styles) I feel good. Kriya Yoga is intended to clean you from the inside out and help with your concentration in meditation. My meditation has certainly become more focused in the past month, part of that is just being in the magical Himalayas. Really, it's so special here. The weather is turning chilly, very brisk in the morning but still warm and sunny in the afternoon followed by cool temperatures in the evening while we're singing to Mother Ganga on the ashram ghat. I hear it's very cold both in Korea and Seattle. I'm certainly thankful to be here!

Ashram 1...Check!

This morning I got up at 4:30am (as usual), went to morning meditation and chanting for 2 hours, ate breakfast, packed up my bag and walked across the Ganges for my 2nd ashram stay in Rishikesh. I had a very nice time at the Sivananda Ashram and will definitely consider visiting their other centers throughout the world. My yoga teacher recommends the Bahamas. Okay! Now I'm staying at Parmarth Niketan, a huge ashram. Tomorrow morning I start a 2-week Kriya Yoga program which will take me to the end of my stay in Rishikesh on December 5th. I have a feeling it will be a very different experience to my stay at Sivananda Ashram. We shall see.

Happy Thanksgiving! What are you thankful for?

Week 1 in Rishikesh

I'm doing most of my writing with pen and paper this week (crazy, I know). Staying at Sivananda's Divine Life Society Ashram is very conducive to silence, turning inwards, and contemplating. It's the time when things tend to "come up", like questions about what I'm doing with my life and how I can be the most benefit to others. I've gotten very into my study of Patanjali's 'Yoga Sutras' the past few months and it's all starting to come together being here. Most of the day is spent in quiet contemplation, either in silent meditation, chanting (bhajan & kirtan), hatha yoga practice, watching pujas (ceremonies), or eating delicious satvic vegetarian food. Surprisingly, in the 3 months since I started this journey, this is the first time I've really been alone! It's a nice change to not have anyone to talk to and to digest everything that's come so far. Today is already day 5 at the Sivananda Ashram. I'll be moving to Parmarth Niketan, another ashram on the Ganges River, on Sunday to start a 12 day Kriya Yoga program.

There's a great energy to Rishikesh, right on the Ganges, surrounded by green hills and mountains, thousands of like-minded people. Of course there are also tons of tourists, dirty streets, beggars, and honking motor-bikes, but it's a manageable amount of noise and crowds compared to some other areas in India. I'm happy to be here.

Serving in Shillong

“Good morning, Miss,” chant 55 students as I enter the makeshift hall-cum-classroom. For two weeks, I am teaching at Bellefonte Parish in Shillong, Meghalaya which is one of the 7 northeastern states in India. Connected by a thread to the main subcontinent, the northeastern peoples still have much of their tribal tradition and culture. In Meghalaya, the Khasi people maintain their traditional dress, government, and language, even in the booming city of Shillong. English is becoming the prominent language, though, and all business, government, and education is conducted in English. As Sister Helen, who is responsible for the training program, tells me, without knowing English the students in the northeast have no future.

I met Sister Helen through Pam Deacon, a good friend and colleague from my years at PLU. I was planning a 3 month trip to India and wanted to do some volunteer work during my stay. Pam put me in touch with Sister Helen at Bellefonte Parish and we planned for me to come and teach English for a few weeks, staying with the sisters at the convent. When I got off the plane at Guwahati airport in Assam, I really didn’t know what to expect. After only a few minutes wait outside the sparse airport, a smiling, petit nun in a white habit gave me a hug and walked me, hand in hand, to a jeep and driver. Already I could tell this was a very different India than my previous two weeks sightseeing in the Rajasthan desert. There were lush green hills, not a word of Hindi language, and the people looked much more like Southeast Asia natives than your typical Indians. (Khasi people are said to have originally come from Cambodia.)

Over the four hour drive into the hills Sister Helen filled me in on the problems and needs of the locals, like the increase of alcoholism, and domestic violence, villages whose population are mostly illiterate and uneducated, and how she and others are trying to offer solutions. She passionately described projects helping villagers create a sustainable living, high school drop-outs getting a second chance at education, and mission centers supplying the only health care available for miles.

The sisters at Bellefonte Parish welcomed me with open arms upon our arrival in Shillong. Twenty one resident novices sang a warm welcome song, and everyone hugged me and shook my hand saying over and over, “You are most welcome,” a frequently heard verse here. I soon found out that the students I’d be teaching were high school drop-outs studying to take a test to pass the 10^th grade. Some had been out of school only a year or two, but some were in their 20’s and hadn’t studied for a very long time. After the 7^th grade in India all subjects are taught only in English and all graduating tests must be taken in English. These aren’t multiple choice tests, either; they’re full sentence and essay questions in difficult subjects like math, social sciences and economics. For some students who have been educated in their native language or under-educated in villages through the 6^th grade, this is understandably daunting and most fail out before completing 10^th grade. Along with that is the reality that many families need more income than the parents can provide for their large families - 8-10 children is normal - so the eldest one or two are asked to work instead of attending school. Largely for these two reasons, 70% of Meghalaya teens drop out of high school.

The students at Bellefonte study to complete their tests, learning six mornings a week in the parish basement from two devoted sisters. Crammed into a converted hall are benches and long tables that hold up to 60 students, one black board, one white board and one teacher’s desk. Two naked florescent bulbs light the dark basement, and the chill of November begins to seep in through the unheated, cement walls. I had been asked to teach “spoken English,” a broad topic for only two weeks of instruction. I knew these kids would be different from the students I taught for two years in South Korea, so I had planned just one day’s class, figuring I’d see the needs and abilities of these students and go from there. What I found in those 55 smiling faces was an eagerness to learn that I’ve rarely experienced. The students’ abilities range from barely literate to almost fluent. We started with the basics, introductions and some simple grammar, and progressed into past and future tenses, conjugating verbs, proper pronoun use, conversations, and a few fun songs and games. Unlike American teenagers, these kids will try anything I ask them to with a positive attitude, overcoming their shyness to stand up and speak a foreign language in front of their class. For me, it’s a lot of fun to teach motivated young adults who want to – who need to – learn. For them, hopefully it’s a good opportunity to converse with a native English speaker.

Among the many experiences the sisters at Bellefonte Parish have given me, the most memorable was visiting a small village called Umphrew (pronounced oom-prow). We took a jeep about an hour out of the city over roads hand made by the villagers with only hammers and shovels. The road was very bad in places, washed away by heavy monsoon rains for months every year. We walked about 30 minutes into the village itself, the road being too bad for our jeep. Up through the jungle we trekked, meeting school aged children playing with discarded tires and bamboo poles, men carrying loads of rocks and market goods in woven baskets on their backs, most greeting us with a friendly “Kublei,” meaning God Bless in Khasi language. We were heartily greeted at our destination, the home of one SHG member. Sister Helen has been establishing Self Help Groups (SHG’s) in villages like these for the past five years, working with banks to give small loans to groups of villagers and teaching about simple accounting, organization, social awareness, and savings. As we arrived, an elderly woman was quietly nursing a child whose young mother had died during childbirth. This is a too-common story in remote villages, children orphaned because of labor complications and no nearby doctors or transportation to hospitals. The older woman was now caring for 2 children under three years old.

Twelve women ranging from teens to elderly came together for the morning’s meeting where their record keeping books were checked and Sister Helen talked for an hour about working together as a community and the importance of setting goals for the next year’s business. As the many children entertained themselves, the women from three different groups listened attentively and some gave ideas and feedback about their groups’ needs. Surrounded by farmland and lush jungle, the house was a simple 2 building complex, one building housing the living and bed room, the other the kitchen and food storage room. In one corner of the wood-planked living room was an alter to Jesus Christ with several framed pictures, a small stack of Bibles and prayer books, and assorted faux and natural flowers. After the meeting, the house owners gave us a delicious lunch of fish and potato curries with rice. Other villagers we met offered guavas and pumpkins from their own gardens. They may not have plenty, but what they do have the villagers kindly share.

The women in this village cultivate ginger on several plots of land to sell in the local market and the larger market in Shillong city. Sister Helen has some ideas to help their initiative grow like producing ginger juice and getting access to a vehicle so more goods can be transported for selling. All of these, though, take money which neither the villagers nor the Sisters yet have. Hopefully with their bank accounts and savings plans the groups will have enough to reinvest in the business soon.

Aside from positive people, welcoming arms, and smiling students, what I’ve found in Meghalaya is a need for more education opportunities. The many Christian organizations, like the Salesian Sisters at Bellefonte Parish, are doing so much to build schools and bring competent teachers to places that have never had access to education. There are government schools, but many lack in competent teachers or are not accessible for remote villagers. In Umphrew, for example, there is a morning school for just two to three hours from pre-school to 5^th grade but no secondary school. More and more young people are being trained by the many Christian institutions every year, opening more mission centers, supplying health care and awareness throughout the region. Sister Helen’s initiative is helping hundreds of women, families, and children to meet their basic needs and more, developing programs that will sustain their families and afford them a chance to meet or exceed the poverty line. Of course, these charitable organizations have no basic income. All of the programs are funded entirely through generous donations, mostly from international benefactors. What the Khasi and other indigenous people need is a chance at education, a chance that some are now getting.

Of course, Shillong isn’t the only place in the world in need of English teachers. As English becomes more and more a global language students all over the world need to read, write, and speak English in order to pursue business, economics, computers, politics, hospitality and many other fields. For traveling teachers there is a unique chance to experience the every day reality of a different culture, maybe learn a new language, and meet extraordinary people. You don’t have to be a certified teacher or an English major either, anyone can try this for a week to a few years. For me, it’s been incredibly rewarding and I plan to continue teaching, volunteering, and traveling in other countries. Two weeks is a short time for this experience in Shillong but I’ve promised to come back in the future, next time for longer.

I believe if we can become aware of each moment as it happens we have the power to spread kindness, love, and compassion to all those we meet. My main goal in coming to India was to continue my studies in yoga and Buddhism. I started my travels in Asia in 2008 when I moved to a small South Korean island to teach English in an elementary school. After a life-changing two years, I left an incredible community and dear friends to embark on seven months of travel and study. I spent a month trekking and exploring Nepal, walking through small villages, majestic mountains, and crowded cities, then joined an old PLU friend for a two week journey in Rajasthan, western India. From Shillong, I will travel by jeep, plane, train and bus to reach Rishikesh in the northwest foothills of the Himalayas, a city known as ‘the yoga capital of the world.’ I had no idea that I would develop such an attachment to the sisters in Shillong, the hard-working students, or the Khasi people. Every moment in life is an opportunity to connect with people. I am so grateful to be living my dreams, learning about the world one smiling face at a time.

The last day in Shillong

It's time to leave Shillong already. I've been staying with the sisters at Bellefonte Convent for the past 2 1/2 weeks and it's flown by! I've written much about my experiences here and I'll post it all from Delhi tomorrow during my 8 hours killing time between plane and train trips. I take away an enormous feeling of gratitude from this time in Shillong. Life is such a gift!

india with Erin - 5

After another lovely terrace morning yoga session and breakfast overlooking the Blue City we bid farewell to our haveli and departed for places south. Haveli Inn Pal was our favorite hotel because of their fabulous food, 360 degree views, incredibly friendly staff, free wifi and Internet, real espresso, and a perfect location. If you find yourself in Jodhpur, western Rajasthan, stay here. Our next stop was Ranakhpur which houses some very famous and unique Jain temples. Jainism came from Hinduism in the 6th century BC similarly to the Buddhism. The little I know about this faith is that it split from Hinduism in much the same way of Buddhism around 5 B.C. People were fed up with the Brahmin caste and other things which led to much exploration to other paths to enlightenment. The temples were truly spectacular. They took 63 years to complete and were a maze of marble columns, idols, and intricate carvings. The Jain Temples are up there for my favorite sight in India so far.

Ramesh took us to a small hotel overlooking a lake - with crocodiles - for lunch. The scenery changed in our 3 hour drive and became lush, green and mountainous which was a welcome change from brown, flat, dry desert. Our next city, Udaipur was another 3 hours from Ranakhpur but the road was brand new and the nicest road we've driven on so we didn't mind. It was almost dusk when we arrived so we opted for dinner at our lake-side hotel and weren't disappointed with the view or the food.

The big thing on our agenda in Udaipur was a cooking class. We read about many reputable kitchens in this lake town and chose one in the middle of town that came recommended by the Lonely Planet and our hotel. The Spice Box is run by Shakti who has been cooking traditional Indian food since he was 7 and who also studies Ayurvedic massage in Kerala, southern India. While he taught us to cook khadai paneer, malai kofka, chapati and a few more dishes, he talked earnestly about his love for cooking and spices and about a recent trip he took to Kyoto, Japan to teach massage and cooking. The class was very well organized and the food was delish. If you see Erin any time soon, ask her to cook you some Indian food!
Lunch was followed by more shopping and then a boat ride on Lake Pichola out to a small palace island. The lakes are all perfectly calm which gives this city a peaceful quality when you're off the streets which, of course, are still chock full of traffic, some of which pee on you when you're not paying attention. (Yes I was sprayed with some cow pee. Do cows not like me?) For dinner we checked out another guide book recommended place with a rooftop terrace (we really like these) and tried their thali, an Indian meal consisting of 3-4 small dishes like lentils or curry with chapati and rice. Then we watched a dance performance with many different types of traditional Indian dance. The most impressive was a woman who balanced 10 pots on her head while dancing across the stage, walking on glass, laying on the ground, etc. Also very entertaining was the marionetteer and his whimsical Rajasthani puppets, the women dancing with pots of fire balanced on their head, and women who played cymbals positioned all over their bodies. We finished the evening with delectable chocolate balls - fudgy/cakey balls rolled in coconut flakes. *Note: These are highly addictive. Every bakery in Udaipur makes their own version which we felt compelled to try.

Our last day of the trip dawned cool and clear over the still lake. We had an Indian breakfast of potato stuffed parantha, a cross between a German pancake and a fried chapati, packed our bags and headed into Udaipur to enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of the town. Erin and I both had had enough sightseeing, but I did want to check out the famous Hindi temple, called Jagdish Temple, in the city center. The temple was full of life. People sat around singing, yellow strings of marigolds were hung from framed pictures and columns, incense was burning everywhere. The temple itself, which is dedicated to the god Vishnu, was more beautiful than other temples I've seen here in India. Thus far we've visited a muslim mosque, a Jain temple, a Sikh temple, Brahma temple, a Vishnu temple and several small neighborhood Hindi temples. There aren't very many Buddhists in this part of India but there will be many in the north where I'll be for the next month. It is very obvious how religion is a living part of every day life in India. Shopkeepers bless their doorways with incense and prayers, Hindus wear bright red and yellow marks on their foreheads, statues of gods and goddesses appear around most corners, Jains sweep their path so as not to kill any insects, temples donate food daily to impoverished people, pilgrims and devotees wander through the streets, meditate, and beg for food. It's a vast change from secular American life.

We did little computer time in the late morning (after cappuccinos and chocolate balls) then it was almost lunch time (but first some coffee and chocolate balls). For lunch we went to Queen Cafe and were not let-down from the rave review in 'Rough Guide to Rajasthan'. Meenu, the sweet daughter of the owners, suggested the pumpkin curry, stuffed tomatoes, and special pulao which sounded good to us. Mmmmm, mmmmm, mmmmm. Even though we were full from our morning of snacking, we ate every bite and just about licked the plate. Joined by Meenu's parents and 5 year old daughter, we sat on the floor in the loft eating chapati and chatting about Indian education and tourist cooking classes. Erin and I stayed there about 3 hours talking with Meena, going over her son and neice's school progress reports and hearing her stories about being an Indian wife and mother today. Oh...and she convinced us to try her chocolate balls. Wow. Eventually we had to go. As much as we wanted to try the banana curry and other exotic sounding dishes, playing with her kids, and napping on comfy rugs and pillows, we had a train to catch. Ramesh took us to the train station and eventually we found our first class train car where I'm currently writing this and Erin in the upper berth and the very nice Indian man in the lower berth are sleeping.

Some recommended spots in western India:

The Taj Mahal - Agra: hire a guide and plan to spend 2-3 hours in this architectural marvel

Sundar Palace Guest House - Jaipur: a very pleasant, cozy, and nicely decorated guest house. The food and service were both good, and the Internet inexpensive (25 rupees for wifi, 40 for Internet)

Haveli Inn Pal - Jodhpur: Located inside Pal Haveli right by the clock tower and spice market in Jodhpur. Our room was huge with a great view and comfy bed. The staff are so friendly and outgoing, we felt like family. Free Internet, really good food at both the Sheesh Mahal Cafe just outside the Haveli (real espresso here) and on the rooftop terrace. Indique, the fine-dining restaurant at Pal Haveli was also very nice but a bit pricier than Haveli Inn Pal's menu with the same view and similar quality food.

Jain temples - Ranakpur: exceptionally beautiful, very unique, quiet and contemplative if you can catch it when there are minimal tourists about. Note: long pants/skirt are required. Leather is not allowed inside the temples.

Queen Cafe - Udaipur: home-cooked food from a Jain kitchen cooked with love and wisdom. Meenu also offers daily cooking classes and will open a new kitchen for this purpose very soon. Located at Hanuman ghat just over the pedestrian bridge.

Spice market - Jaipur:

Honey & Spice - Pushkar:

Amber Fort - Jaipur:

Rana's - Jaipur:

India with Erin - 4

The drive from Pushkar to our next destination, Jodhpur, took us most of the day. We stopped for Thums Up soda and Fanta along the way at a local watering hole. Before arriving at our hotel in the old city, we visited the City Palace, now a museum and hotel, and learned a bit about the Maharajah history of Jodhpur. Erin and I were both quite curious about the current political status of this princely position but our questions were not answered at this museum. The palace, however was very beautiful with an art deco flair. It was commissioned in 1929 by the then maharajah, who was the head of state, as a famine relief project and very successful public work, employing thousands. After we breezed through the sparse exhibitions, Ramesh drove us into the blue city walls - Jodhpur is also called the Blue City because of the cobalt wash on many buildings - bursting with auto-rickshaws, motorbikes, bicycles, street stalls and pedestrians. Jodhpur is a thriving, bustling city and entering it we relinquished our relaxed state from two days in little Pushkar. Our hotel, an old haveli (mansion) has a rooftop terrace, a delicious coffee shop, and a fine dining restaurant all serving yummy Indian treats. For lunch we dined at the Sheesh Mahal cafe for Rajasthani Thali, an all you can eat assortment of local dishes, okra curry, and real espresso.

Around dusk we left our haveli to venture into the spice market. Although noisy, crowded, and dirty, the markets were upbeat and fun and a blur of bright colors: purple eggplants, yellow squash, green okra, broccoli and cabbage, red chilies, piles of garlic and onions, a rainbow assortment of beans and lentils, and then the spices...gorgeous turmeric, cumin and saffron, masala chai, and mixed spices piled high in wooden boxes, plus bright fabrics with gold and gem adornments. Erin stocked up on some packaged spices to take home. I'll be getting some in Kerala a little later in my trip. We were pulled into a 'student clothing shop' before making it back to our haveli and I got a pair of Aladdin style pants while Erin bought yet another beautiful Indian accessory. She'll be representing Rajasthani fashion in Seattle this fall! We decided it was time for a beer after withering in the desert sun all day and so retired to the rooftop terrace for a surprisingly gorgeous view of the blue city, the hill side Meherangarh Fort, City Palace, and white marble mausoleum. Cooling off the a light breeze with some syrupy donuts, it was the perfect evening.

We started our next day with rooftop yoga overlooking the blue city. Thanks to Rough Guide, we've learned that the color was created by a lime based indigo whitewash originally used to indicate homes belonging to the Brahmin caste but also was good for repelling bugs and cooling buildings. We trekked up the steep hillside to the 500 year old Meherangarh Fort where we spent about 2 hours wandering through vast courtyards, well preserved exhibitions, and ornate palace rooms. The audio-guide proved very entertaining with plenty of interesting facts and stories. We learned that the maharajah was stripped of royal and political power after India's independence in the mid-20th century. Nowadays it is merely a title, similar to British royalty, however the mahajah in Jodhpur still works philanthropically in public works, culture preservation, and local celebrations.

By the time we left the massive fort, after patronizing the museum gift shop, of course, the temperature was sweltering. We managed to get lost in the maze of tiny streets and had a little adventure trying to find our hotel with friendly locals directing us this way and that. For lunch we walked to a recommended samosa stand and burned our mouths on fresh veg samosas and pakora, both battered, fried, steaming hot, and delicious. Then back to the Sheesh Mahal cafe for a local variety of lassi called makhania, a mixture of yogurt, saffron, and cardamom. Erin enjoyed that treat while I drank a cold coffee frappé. I don't know how hot it is here, but I wouldn't be surprised to hear it was near 100 degrees F or 40 degrees C. Tomorrow we're off to Udaipur, our last destination before going back to Delhi. We're hoping it'll be cooler, being on a lake and farther west away from the Thal Desert.

India with Erin - 3

From Jaipur was a short 3 hour drive to Pushkar, a city rich in religious history and culture. It is still a place of Pilgrimage for Hindis with unique temples devoted to Lord Brahma (the only such temple in India) and Lord Vishnu as well as many, many other deity manifestations. After 3 very intense days of sightseeing in busy cities, Erin and I both decided to take it easy in Pushkar. Ramesh, our driver, told us that you could see all of Pushkar on foot so we told him to take it easy for a day and a half while we did the same. Lunch at the Hotel New Park was delightful on the rooftop overlooking the surrounding desert hills and temples. We're enjoying trying a different couple of dishes each meal, mostly vegetarian - alcohol and meat are forbidden in Pushkar - but also tandoori chicken and a mutton mughali in Agra and Jaipur. We ordered the 'special naan' for lunch and it turned out to be a calzone style stuffed dough, fried crispy and filled with tomatoes, onions, garlic and a little fresh cheese. That with 2 other veggie dishes made a surprisingly tasty lunch. Erin decided to treat herself to an Ayurvedic massage at our hotel so after a long lunch and some writing I walked into the main bazaar and she stayed behind to be lathered with oil and rubbed vigorously from head to toe. I sauntered up the dirt road and looked into some nearby temples, one devoted to Hanuman, a Hindu deity usually depicted as a monkey, a Sikh temple, the famed Vishnu temple, which is closed to foreigners, to name a few. Wandering down a side street, I had a surprise animal encounter. I was talking with a young girl and not noticing where I was walking and suddenly...a cow bit me!!! Guidebooks warn of rabid monkeys, stray dogs, and even spitting camels, but I've never heard of a cow biting a person. I guess I either just walked too close and scared it, or else it thought my purse was a snack. There are cows roaming everywhere and eating whatever they find. Fortunately for me, the hungry heifer bit right into my purse strap and my money belt and only grazed my belly but it certainly left a mark (pics to follow as soon as I find the time) and left me a little dumbfounded. The little girl I was walking with laughed at me and just walked around the cow, but I screamed, eventually unlocked myself from its tight jaws and walked back the way I came. I was a little worried about infection but I washed and disinfected the bitten area on my stomach upon returning to our stately hotel room and, 24 hour later, am feeling fine. Erin and I shared a laugh or two...or three; I mean, really, who gets bitten by a cow?!

We both were feeling a little under the weather our first evening in Pushkar, me from the startling cow and Erin from dehydration and the intense massage, so we opted for room service - again delicious veggie dishes - and had a quiet night in. I tucked into my new books on learning Hindi and Erin went to bed early.

The next day we started with yoga, a chill breakfast highlighted with roasted chocolate and honey covered bananas and a long, late morning nap. We had arranged a music class the day before, something we both wanted to do in India. Thanks to the Lonely Planet, we found Saraswati Music and Dance school in Pushkar. Birju, the music teacher, picked us up on his motorbike and drove us Indian style - 3 on a bike - to the music school on the opposite end of town. In his house-cum-music school, he taught us a traditional Indian raga which consisted of a 5-tone ascending scale, an 8-tone descending scale, an improvising scale and a song. Birju accompanied us on tablas and we got to play the harmonium. After an hour class, Birju's brother picked us up - Indian motorcycle ride again - and brought us to the dance school in town. We spent the next hour learning about 30 bars of Bollywood style dance. Erin really enjoyed the dancing, I thought it was fun but got a little annoyed with myself for my lack of coordination and memory. Our dance teacher, Hemant, was very kind and personable and a beautiful dancer and musician. It was a very unique experience that we will both remember from Pushkar.

For lunch we walked down the one road through town and went to Honey & Spice, another great Lonely Planet recommendation. After my cow encounter the previous day I found this hidden coffee oasis and was in ecstacy over the cinnamon & ginger coffee. With beans from South India brewed thick, strong, and spicy, I wanted Erin to try the yummy brew and tasty baked sweets. Our lunch was truly superb, my soy apple, fig and honey milkshake to die for, and our spiced chocolate cake, chocolate-nutmeg coffee, and cardamom coffee indescribably, lavishly tasty. So good, in fact, that after visiting the Brahma Temple, the Brahma Ghat, and doing a little shopping, we went back for another cup, this time coriander and aniseed flavor. I never thought of brewing coffee with spices in it but I'll sure try this at home!

En route to the coffee shop, we were stopped by a huge crowd of people and a Hindu parade. People, dressed and painted as deities were being driven, pulled, and carried through town for the big festival. I don't actually know what festival it was, it seems festivals occur quite often in India. We were swept up in the crowd under showers of marigold petals watching the deities, dancers, and drummers parading by. The parade followers marched along with the music and all participants ended up at a field nearby for more festivities, food, and fireworks. Erin and I opted to walk down the now empty street, window shopping in peace and quiet, then take in dinner at a rooftop cafe in town. We were very happy to find fried eggplant on the menu and it turned out to be a fantastic dish, paired with tons of crunchy garlic, tomatoes and onions. We had a truly wonderful day in Puahkar.

India with Erin - 2

Day 2 brought Erin and I to Jaipur, or the Pink City, by way of Fatehpur Sikri, an abandoned city situated outside of Agra. Fatehpur Sikri is home to a famous moghul palace and mosque which we explored in the hot sun amidst many touts and "government guides" who all wanted to help you really appreciate the history of the place for a small fee or by also visiting their uncle/brother/father's stall or shop. We managed to avoid them in the palace but not the mosque. We did really enjoy the abandoned city and its red sandstone buildings with intricately carved walls. It was hot, though, in the Rajhastani sun making us very thankful for our air-conditioned car and kind driver.

Jaipur is a pretty crazy city full of motor vehicles, bicycles, and wandering animals making for pretty crazy traffic. It is probably the shopping capital of India. And we shopped a lot. Erin does like to shop and was set on getting a few things in Jaipur so that was our main focus. The shopkeepers (all men) jumped out at us from plastic chairs to try and get us to look in their shop. "Madam, please look!" "Lookng is no charge!" "Looking is free!" "Only look, no problem!" "Very cheap! You like!'" These and many other more and less polite things were yelled at us as we passed by sparkly bangles, colorful saris, camel-leather shoes, and Indian gems. We both bought a few things (well, me one thing and Erin many) and we haggled and bargained our socks off.

We did do some sightseeing in Jaipur as well. The Amber Fort is just a short drive from the walled, pink, Old City. We happened to be there on a day of a big Durga (the Mother of God in the Hindu religion) festival which meant the big temple inside the fort was absolutely packed with devotees and worshippers, some performing full-body prostrations walking up the path. (Each step you lay your whole body on the earth as a sign of supplication). We were bombarded as we hiked up to the palace entrance with begging women and children, many who tried to give us tika (the red mark between the eyebrows for good luck). Pilgraming families bought a string of marigolds and sweets to offer to Durga once inside the temple. Because of the overwhelming crowd, we decided to go into the palace instead of the temple. The palace afforded spectacular views of the city of Amber and surrounding hills. These were a close second, however, to the appropriately named Glass Palace which is covered with cut glass and mirrors of varying shapes, sizes and patterns. We also liked standing on the many palace rooftops and terraces watching Indian women in beautiful saris approaching the temple, a rainbow of bright colors floating by in a river of gorgeous faces and fabrics.

Our guest house, Sunder Palace, was a very quiet and comfortable accommodation with a rooftop cafe and real filtered coffee, two things that make any hotel enjoyable in my eyes. The hallways were filled with tasteful Indian paintings and decor and our room was immensely spacious, big enough for our morning yoga, two couches, a coffee table and dining set.

Erin and I are both making a very conscious effort to surrender to the moment and not get too off-put by hawkers and starers. It's no lie that Indian cities can be overwhelming, even with our cushy transportation situation. Our car conversations revolve a lot around yoga, being present, and having compassion for desperate people who wlll do just about anything to get your money. You can see that desperation in mothers who carry babies and beg for you to buy them a banana, children who run to your car at stoplights, rickshaw drivers who follow you down the street, shop owners who thrust cheap merchandise in your face. What can we do to help? We talk about that a lot, too.

India with Erin - 1

Erin and I both made it safely to India, me on a 1 1/1hour flight from Kathmandu and her on 3 flights, originating in Seattle and ending about 30 hours later at 11pm in Delhi. Obviously she had the more difficult day of traveling. Just a word about flying through Kathmandu, though: prepare to be searched. And searched. And then, just for good measure, searched again. With a thoroughly inspected group of mildly disgruntled travelers I boarded the Jet Lite flight to Delhi 2 hours late, then sat on the Tarmac for another 40 minutes waiting for runway space to take-off. The delay was of little difference to me and my negligent time constraints but I felt a bit bad for our hired driver who had to wait at the Indira Ghandi airport for me all that time. Ramesh greeted me heartily at the arrivals gate of the very recently remodeled international wing - a welcome change from the very basic, not so safe feeling Kathmandu airport - and took me to the Glitter Hotel 30 minutes away. I had my first meal in India, a room service yellow dal (lentils) with naan. Tasty! Oh Indian food, you are so delicious and I will happily embrace any culinary challenge you put forth in the next 3 months. Ramesh and I went back to the airport to pick up Erin just after I had a chance to settle in and finish my Paulo Coelho novel. Fortunately, she was on-time and we gabbed the whole way back to the Glitter and on for another after. Being 1am at this point, we hit the hay for a 5am wake up.

Morning yoga on the balcony was the first thing on our agenda the next morning. We were off around 6:45am to beat the traffic out of Delhi headed to Agra, home of the mystical and infamous mausoleum, the Taj Mahal. A stop for Indian breakfast -stuffed parantha, curd and dal- and 2 more incredible sights were all that stood in the way between us and an architectural wonder. We stopped at Akhbar's Tomb or Sikandar, a peaceful, deer filled park and mausoleum for a stroll and philosophical conversation about the reasons behind these very fancy burials, then popped into the Baby Taj (Itimad-ud-Daulah), which pre-dated the big one by a few years and from which the Taj Mahal derives her Iranian gem inlay-in-marble style. I really liked the Baby Taj, but it really was a baby in comparison to majesty of the Taj Mahal. It was grand. We hired a guide who took good care of us, giving us specs, myths, history, and great stories, and showing us the best spots for photos and the many points of symmetry on the grounds between the gates, mosques, and the Taj. It is a magical place, architecturally as awesome for 1653 when construction was finished, as it is today. Erin & I found it funny that we were as popular as the building and were asked by more than a handful of Indians to pose for a picture with them (most men who wanted an individual shot of each of them with the two of us). Dinner was delicious again and an enjoyable experience because of Bikesh, age 9. and Tavesh, age 10, who played drums, sang, and danced to interest dining guests in the dolls they were selling. Bikesh and I sang "lion sleeps tonight" together. If we hadn't been to the Taj Mahal the same day. It would have been the highlight of my day.

Serenity in Nepal

It's been a magical week of decompressing in Pokhara. I've heard many other travelers express a similar sentiment, coming here to just be after the madness of Kathmandu or the weariness of trekking. My companions and I believe ourselves to be he luckiest bunch in lakeside Pokhara having found a serene haven in the Peace Eye Guest House. When we arrived one week ago, Chiran, the cheery owner, showed us 2 spacious rooftop rooms attached to a quiet patio. At 500 rupees for a single and 600 for a double ($8 and $9 respectively), the rooms are extremely reasonable, clean, and safe. We've spent countless hours on our nearly private rooftop reading, writing, making music, and generally decompressing. The street side cafe is always lively with guests and diners looking for a chat or playing the guitar. Not to mention the friendliest server who greets you with a bright smile every morning and scrumptious food.

Pokhara is known for its lake and most tourists stay on the 'lakeside' of town. We're no exception, nor are our good friends from the trek. Our first morning we bumped into the jovial Israelis and that afternoon had coffee and cake with 2 Spaniards who were on our bus that first day out of Kathmandu. Today we met a lovely kiwi couple who we had chatted up in the capital waiting to use an ATM. And an American yogi/aspiring travel writer and I bonded over a few days by the lake. October 4th was Avner's - the jovialist of Israelis - birthday and we celebrated at a Korean restaurant (surprisingly good!) and then over pool, beer, and live music.

Perhaps the best friendship nurtured in this tourist town has been with Alberto and Stacy. Alberto has been traveling from his home of Spain roughly 2 years with his dog and guitar, busking from town to town, country to country, playing tasty Spanish guitar tunes solo or with fellow musicians met along the road. Jeju was blessed with his presence last year when he stayed with good friends of Mike and Emma for some weeks and played music with Jeju's many quality musicians. Since then, Alberto met Stacy traveling through the Philippines and she decided to leave her life and join him on the road, teaching yoga wherever she can. I've spent the week studying with Stacy at the Nepal Women's Empowerment Center where she teaches daily Ashtanga yoga, free to girls studying at the center and for a fee to other drop-in students. An inspiring and challenging teacher, Stacy has brought me back to a practice I turned away from years ago with grace and love. This amazing couple is an inspiration to me, myself being a world traveling musician and yoga teacher. Certainly their presence has been a big contributor in this week's serenity.

My daily schedule since our arrival has been as follows:
- a peaceful 20 min walk by the lake munching a fresh baked good
- 1 1/2 hours Ashtanga yoga with Stacy
- breakfast and coffee at a sidewalk cafe or my guest house
- reading or writing
- chat with travelers or friends
- nap or book
- afternoon coffee/tea and cake at the organic vegetarian bakery a few doors down
- reading or writing
- dinner with Emma and Mike or other friends
- live music or a walk in town in the evening

I realized today I've yet to take a single picture in Pokhara. As tomorrow is our last day here, I'll equip myself with camera on the walk to yoga and back. I also might pick-up a skirt or pair of pants which is a little pricier in Nepal than I suspect will be in India, but the shopping is so hassle-free and laid-back it'll no doubt be just easier here. I've only bought 1 pair of earrings, 1 wool hat, and 1 blouse to take with me. And a yak's wool shawl on the trail which kept me warm in the mountains. I've stuck pretty fast to my estimated budget for this leg of he journey which will prove to be very important as I travel on. As I continue to find peace in the financial realm, my daily practice reminds me to be present and positively manifest what I need.

Annapurna Pictures

I posted about 50 pictures from the trek - including my new do - here. If you can't open them let me know. Internet is a blessing and a curse (the latter from 3rd world countries on public computers).

Annapurna Circuit Trek - Day by Day

From Kathmandu We hired 3 Sherpas, Mingma, Sangae, and Pasang, who happily carried our packs for 15 days from Kathmandu to Pokhara and assisted us all along the way. We were so happy to hike with them every day. They made our trek really special and we are grateful for their positive attitudes and smiling faces.

Day 1: Bus ride from Kathmandu to BesiSahar...should have been a 5-6 hour bus ride but was interrupted by a major landslide making he total trip 14 hours and not a little frightening. Slept in BesiSahar, the starting point for the trek.

Day 2: BesiSahar to Buhandande...a rainy morning but a beautiful hiking day. I fell face first in the first (of many) rivers we crossed but mostly dried out by the end of our 7 hours of hiking. The hills were beautiful, mostly rice fields and tropical plants. A monsoon rain fell in the evening until early morning and our tea house leaked badly so we didn't have the best nights sleep.

Day 3: Buhandande to Chame...another long trekking day and a few leeches joined us along the rivers we trekked through. No harm, though, Pasang Sherpa and Emma shrugged them off and we enjoyed a hot day, gorgeous waterfalls and hillside rice fields along with our first glimpse of a really BIG mountain. The trail was cut off by landslides in many places and we hiked over them to continue on our way.

Day 4: Chame to Dhurabani...the hardest day of hiking for me because of sore muscles. Also we had to stop along the way a few times because they were blasting some trails in preparation for new roads. We hiked over more big landslides and waterfalls today and left the rice paddies and tropical climate at a lower elevation. Dhurabani is at 1800 meters.

Day 5: Dhurabani to Chame (a real town!)... difficult morning hike uphill through lush temperate forests and fog but much cooler temperatures than previous days. This elevation is filled with apple orchards, so fresh apples & apple pie for the next week! Chame is big with many teahouses and shopping but the electricity was cut off in the early evening- which is very common along the trail. Not our first or last dark, cold night.

Day 6: Chame to Lower Pisang...elevation 3200 meters. Beautiful hike today in cold and windy weather. Emma and I do yoga before and after hiking every day which really helps body & mind to stay present and not sore. We've gotten close to Avner and Assaf, 40-something Israeli men and their porters Ganu and Picas. We eat most meals and stay in the same tea houses with them. They are very entertaining and have made for lots of laughs!

Day 7: Chame to Lower Pisang...started hiking late today because of rain but the morning turned clear as we hiked through the start of Manang valley. Not a difficult hike today but a long day with some upset stomachs and afternoon rain bringing us into Manang. At 3200 meters we are almost above the tree line, the temperature has dropped drastically and the air is very dry despite the rain.

Day 8: Rest day in Manang...it is strongly recommended to take a day of rest at 3500 meters to acclimate to the high altitude before ascending. We obliged and just did a morning hike up to a view point where the views of surrounding peaks were truly breathtaking. We were just feeling the slightest effects of Altitude Sickness (headache, fatigue) but overall okay. While the clouds cleared all day the mountains kept revealing themselves one by one.

Day 9: Manang to Yak Kharka...Crystal clear skies this morning and the most majestic view I've ever seen as I pulled back the curtain on my guesthouse window: a full moon in the dawn light over an 8000 meter peak covered in snow. Hike was exceptionally beautiful and we proceeded slowly through green alpine fields past yaks & sheep and thinning air. A little hard to breathe as we ascended to 4000 meters.

Day 10: Yak Kharka to High Camp... Another sunny day of glorious mountain peaks over alpine meadows. We easily hiked to Thorong Phedi in the morning, the first option of places to stay for the night. We decided to continue on to High Camp instead as to have an easier next day for our big trek over the pass. It was 1 hour of hiking straight up, 500 meters. "Slowly, slowly" was our motto. High Camp was miserable, freezing cold, full of other hikers (mostly Israeli) and our rooms were like stone dungeons with a communal outdoor toilet - squat style like all tea houses on the trek. It snowed for a bit which was quite pretty amidst the peaks but literally freezing. No heat anywhere. And no sleep to speak of.

Day 11: Thorong Pass to Muktinath...a bleary eyed 3am wake-up to an almost full moon, unimpeded starlight and a towering ring of mountains. At 4:30am we set-off to conquer the pass which was 2 1/2 hours of hiking in freezing temperatures wearing just about everything we had brought. It was a very difficult morning for me but the sun finally came up over the hills behind us and offered an incomparable sunrise worth every grueling step. For many, it's the 1000 meter descent of this day that is more difficult. For me it was the pre-dawn cold and thinning air. Every second was a challenge until that first ray of sun hit my trembling legs. It felt as if I was being pushed to my limits and finally God said "ok, you've done it!" and there was the sun! By noon we had hiked down to Muktinath and decided to take a rest day the following day after rewarding ourselves with cold beer.

Day 12: Muktinath...we convinced our Israeli friends to stay in Muktinath for the day and had a late breakfast, stroll around the arid town, and late lunch with our entertaining mates. Muktinath is an ancient place of pilgrimage for both Hindus and Buddhists. We carelessly strolled to the temple grounds stopping to admire (and purchase) Tibetan inspired wares along the way. It was a great day of rest and we were all the most grateful for warm weather, our first in many days.

Day 13: Muktinath to Jomsom...We had intended to stay in Kagbeni, just hiking the short 2-3 hours to this dusty town. On arrival, however, we found a depressed, windy, ghost town that we didn't want to spend more time in than necessary. So after a too-long lunch break we braved the winds and trekked onwards to Jomsom. For all of us it was the worst 3 hours of the trip. The wind whipped us with a constant stream of dust and we had to walk on gravel roads with buses and jeeps roaring past. By the time we arrived in Jomsom we had decided to take a bus the rest of the way so as to avoid another day of similar walking. We debated flying to Pokhara but with tight budgets and last minute travel plans that didn't look like the best option.

Day 14: Jomsom to Beni...oh how we wish we had flown. 7am to 4pm on buses and jeeps driving on cliff-side, one-lane mud tracks, over and around landslides - again we had to pass on foot and take a bus on the other side - and we reached Beni dirtier and more exhausted than the previous day's walk had left us. Beni was he biggest town we had seen in 2 weeks and we were all a little jarred with he noise of cars, motorcycles, and "city" life. We celebrated the completion of our Annapurna journey with round of beers and a hearty thank you to our Sherpas.

Day 15: Beni to Pokhara...A mostly-paved road brought us the 4 hours to Pokhara, Nepal's second largest city and the official end of our trek. We said a sad good-bye to Mingma, Sangae, and Pasang and checked in at the Peace Eye Guest House which looks to be our home for the next week.

It's taken me 3 days to type this in my iPod mostly from the cozy bakery here or my rooftop patio. Pokhara is a great place to unwind with friendly tourists, yummy bakeries, and our friends of the past two weeks. Emma and I have continued our daily yoga practice and Mike is playing music with fellow nomads around town. This morning I took a canoe ride on the lake with a traveller I met a few days ago. There is talk of visiting other parts of Nepal in the upcoming week but, honestly I think I need vacation. That probably sounds funny coming from a jobless traveller but, as many people know, traveling is tiring! I believe today is Monday and I have reservations back in Kathmandu next Sunday for my last two nights in Nepal. Another week of lounging with minimal agenda and minimal spending sounds just fine to me.

On a side note, I have made a change to my appearance. About six months ago I made a decision that I would shave my head sometime on this journey. After the Himalayan trek seemed an appropriate time since it is the end of cold climates for me until my return to Seattle in April. So on Saturday morning I went into a barber shop down the street and a nice Indian man took a straight razor to my short curly mess of hair. Now I am bald. My friends here have gotten used to it already and say that it suits me. I feel free and happy with my decision. It's just hair anyway. I guess it is symbolic of my journey, new beginnings or something. It doesn't really feel like a beginning or end of anything, just a continuation of life's journey as I remain open to my ever-unfolding path.

Nepal

Our Himalayan trek was wonderfully successful! Emma, Mike & I have found ourselves in Pokhara which is the starting and stopping place for the Annapurna treks. It's day 3 here in this chill, touristy town and we're thoroughly enjoying the laid-back lake town. This morning Emma &I went to a yoga class taught by an acquaintance of ours we ran into yesterday. We've also met some of our good friends from the trek. I think I'll just hang here for a week and try to get my blog and pics updated from the past month.

"Be here now with patience and love"

After 2 exhausting but exhilarating weeks in Japan and 1 1/2 weeks back in Korea of farewells, visa follies, mountain peaks, and good eats, I have made it to Kathmandu, Nepal with my newest travel companions, Emma & Mike. I spent my first 24 hours here in child's pose, lotus and savasana recovering from the heat and stress leading up to now. Today is day 3 in Nepal and it gets crazier here every minute. As per Nepali Government Regulation, today we went to the Nepal Travel Board to get a trekking permit and Annapurna Conservation Permit so we can proceed to the mountains on Friday. We're currently waiting to hear back from a Sherpa who is a personal acquaintance of a Jeju friend. If that doesn't pan out, we'll take a bus to Besi Sahar, hire a few porters and take off on Saturday or Sunday. Tomorrow will be final shopping preparations as each of us has come to Kathmandu with a different list of "To-gets" for the trek, from down jackets to sleeping sacks to batteries and ace bandages. We plan to be prepared but not over prepared, appreciating that we're hiring men to carry out packs for about 20 days and trying to be humane about it.

Kathmandu itself is quite overwhelming but in a beautiful way. Of course there is poverty and begging, mostly children but also adults and elderly people. A chorus of "Yes, please!" follows us through the streets as we are offered taxi rides, woolen goods, and other wares and services. Emma summed it up nicely yesterday when she said, "Every cool shop or thing we've ever seen comes from HERE." Though it may be a slight exaggeration, it is, in essence, true. When you go to that shop that sells pashminas, tie-died sarongs, hand-stitched mandalas and gloves, and Himalayan crocheted hats, at least the idea comes from right here in Nepal. Looking out my guest house window, though, I mostly see muddy cobbled or dirt roads, open windows and brick building fronts, stray dogs, and the occasional beggar wandering by. Endless chanting, honking, bell ringing, and children's cries are the soundtrack as I fall asleep or meditate. I look forward to moving on to real Nepal soon, not the buzz of the city but the ancient civilization that birthed the Buddha and the world's most spectacular mountains.

As for me, I'm happy to be free from a time commitment, punch card or cell phone. I expect this to be my last internet usage for about 25 days which also excites me. I love and appreciate technology as much as any other 20-something with friends and family around the world, but I also appreciate an absence of it as it gradually takes over too many moments of my time. Emma and Mike have just come from 2 weeks on Indonesian tropical islands and are as chill as might be expected. Whereas I'm coming from the two biggest, fastest cities in the world and am wound about as tight as might be expected. But slowly I'm unwinding, sinking back into my yoga practice and my breath, and giving a hefty thanks for this opportunity.

Packing in the sights: Kyoto

Holy smokes I'm tired! There's so much to see in Kyoto and to even do a fraction of it is taking all my energy. I wish I could say my last weekend in Jeju will be a time to relax, but it's already full of meetings with friends and last goodbyes. Hopefully I can squeeze a morning at the sauna and another massage in there somewhere.

It did take about 8 hours to get to Kyoto on the local trains from Yokohama. I transferred about 6 times, which seems like more than I really needed to, but I just followed the station master's advice of where to change trains and that's how it worked. It was pretty simple and I didn't wait longer than 10 minutes for a single train so it was a relaxing day nonetheless. Fortunately, the last 2 trains coming into Kyoto were rapid trains which probably cut 30 minutes of travel. I had booked a hostel online before coming here and it turned out to be a great decision. 'Tour Club Kyoto' is probably the most affordable accommodation in Kyoto and it is clean, quiet, conveniently located, and comfortable. There's even a Zen garden next to my room!

Having only 2 full days in Kyoto, I packed today full of sights. Kyoto was Japan's second capital, after Nara, and has many, many, many historical sights, especially Shinto Shrines and Buddhist Temples but also more than a few castles, palaces, gardens, and parks. I followed the Lonely Planet walking tour through the east part of the city today, leaving my hostel at 7:30am to hopefully beat the heat and the crowds. It was very quiet and not yet boiling hot as I walked the traditional Japanese alleyways up to my first temple of the day. I'd love to tell you the name of it, but it's long forgotten. Fortunately, I remembered to take pictures of most of the signposts with names on them. I walked kilometer after kilometer, saw temple after temple after shrine after temple, and sweat buckets. My clothes are so disgusting, I won't even describe the smell to you. (Not that that's new...I've been sweating this much for a month.) I paused for an early lunch at a quiet park (fresh avocado, tomatoes, French bread, and a Japanese rice cake all purchased at the local mart the previous evening) and continued on to temple after shrine after temple. Needless to say, my body needed a rest! I finally conceded to the heat and walked to the Kyoto National Museum of Modern Art for an hour of air conditioned bliss. I don't usually go for museums when I travel, but this was a necessary and enjoyable change of pace. The most interesting exhibit was photography taken by an American in Japan at the end of WWII. It showed both American and Japanese soldiers and civilians and it reminded me just how much Japan has recovered in 60 years. The country was literally devastated and has become one of the strongest nations in the world. South Korea has a similar story, although for completely different reasons. After another beautiful temple, waterfall garden, and impromptu hike through a cedar forest, I took the bus back to my hostel, grabbed some clean clothes and headed out to the sauna. Yes, sauna - or onsen as they're called in Japan. There are signs all over my hostel advertising a bath house just a few blocks down the road for a very reasonable price. And, oh yeah, was it just what I needed. It was as nice a sauna as any, 4 or 5 hot pools, a cold pool, a dry sauna, and an outdoor hot pool. I soaked and bubbled away my muscle aches and foot cramps and feel pretty refreshed for another day tomorrow! I intended to go to Gion, the historic Geisha district, this evening but after a simple udon noodle and tofu dinner, my body said "No! Go to bed." And here I am on the internet, not in bed. I'll head there shortly, though!

The temples and shrines were really beautiful and very interesting. I don't mean to make them sound bland or boring. They all have a unique feel to them and beautiful, peaceful grounds. I meditated in a few and got to sit in on a ceremony in one. They are all a little different from each other and are quite different from Korean temples (Mahayaha Buddhism) or Thai temples (Theravada Buddhism). The history of Japanese Buddhism (Zen Buddhism) is marked by the emporor or shogunate of the period and many times in Japanese history Zen Buddhism was outlawed or changed for a long period. Most of the temples have been rebuilt, moved, or restored at least a few times and almost all that I saw today were undergoing restoration.

Gotta run, internet over.

Yokohama

A few days before I left, Julia messaged me and asked me if I had some time on Thursday morning. She said it was `super important`. (Forgive the quotes, I can`t seem to figure out Japanese keyboard functions). I agreed to reserve some time on the morning of my departure for my dear friend, thinking it was a last waffle breakfast or walk at the arboretum. As I sat waiting for her at our regular coffee house in the city, I felt the accumulated stress in my neck and shoulders as bad as it has been in a while. I had just turned in my apartment keys and dropped off my trekking gear at a friend`s so I didn`t have to lug it around Japan when Julia surprised me with my gift of a 2-hour facial & massage. She walked me into the massage room and said, `See you in 2 hours!` It was heavenly, melting away my stress like a popsicle in the hot Jeju sun and preparing me for travel.

But enough about my awesome gift, I`m in Japan! It was an easy 2-hour Korean Air flight over the Sea of Japan/East Sea - depending on who you ask - and an easy 1 1/2 hour bullet train ride to the train station to meet my Yokohama host, Sachiko. Sachiko stayed with my mom last year on her 5th visit to America and extended the offer that I was welcome to stay with her if I ever came back to Japan. Her and her family have been graciously hosting me and showing me around Yokohama for the past 3 days. Tomorrow I will head out solo down to the famed city Kyoto on the slowest trains possible, making it a day of air conditioned train rides and train station food. Actually, that sounds heavenly. It`s hot. We`ve been walking an average of 5 hours a day and sweating continuously. Sachiko has packed about as much sightseeing as possible into our 3 days together and I`m grateful for the chance to blindly follow and not make decisions. As safe, clean, and easy as it is to travel in Japan, it`s still Japan and I know about 5 phrases of Japanese, none of which will get me where I need to go in a pinch. As for train station food, I`ve had good luck so far. I have yet to have a bad meal in Japan. In fact, I may like the food more than Korean food! Well, at least the same. Japan is a very expensive country, especially when you`re converting from Korean won, so I`m on a tight budget and train station food fits the bill nicely. I`ll be staying in a hostel, which I haven`t done since NZ a few years ago, but it seems clean and quiet and also fits into the budget. Thanks, Lonely Planet!

Tonight was my favorite Japanese experience so far...a rolling sushi restaurant! You sit at a booth and single plates of sushi, usually 2 pieces, roll past your table. You can pick up whatever you want and all dishes are 100 Yen ($1.25ish). When you`re finished eating, the plates are counted by sliding them one by one into a dish receptacle at the end of your table and every 5 plates an animated game comes on to your tables`s computer (yes, each table has a computer where you can order any dish to come sliding to your table side) where you can win a free dish or little toy. It was so much fun! And the sushi, which I can only eat selectively, was delectable. It felt like a very Japanese experience. We were joined by Sachiko`s daughter-in-law and 9 year old grandson from Tokyo and my gracious hosts paid for our dinner. Between the 5 of us we had over 50 plates! They kept asking me to eat more and try everything, but I can only eat so much sushi before I start to feel a little sick. I didn`t think I was a picky eater, but there were actually a lot of dishes I couldn`t eat. Or maybe I just didn`t want to...

Tomorrow morning I`m going to the train station at 6:50am to start my long journey south. I`ve been told it will take 6-8 hours with various transfers to reach Kyoto Station. There`s a screaming deal on train tickets that`s only available during school holidays, like right now. It cost 1\4 the price of a 7 day JR Rail Pass with the catch that you can`t take any high-speed trains. That`s $140 vs almost $500 to travel at a leisurely pace. Well worth it to me. And I get to see Mt. Fuji from the train! Woohoo!

Time to move on

The last day of After-School English class - Dong Elementary School

It's almost 2 years to the day since I came to Jeju island. In 4 days, I will leave and begin a new, great adventure. I've learned immeasurable amounts during my time here and the only thing I know for certain about the next 8 months is that I'll learn exponentially more.

But first, to catch up with the past month. July came and went, school ended, I said goodbye to my students and fellow teachers, and of course it was a very hard last week of school with the tragic loss of my friend Kim Kee Jeong. Jason stayed at my place his last week in Jeju and we spent many evenings on the beach saying goodbye. The past 3 weeks have been blur of selling, shipping and giving away the surprisingly large amount of possessions I've amassed in Jeju, cleaning out my classroom and apartment, organizing my upcoming trip, and saying goodbye to friends, all the while trying to enjoy Jeju's beauty and staying present. I think I've pulled it off! With my apartment check-out tomorrow, I'm 95% ready to pass this humble studio on to the next teacher. My travel plans are as organized as they can be and my backpack pretty much packed. I taught my last English class on Friday and my last yoga class today on top of the beautiful Hamdeok Oreum, which means my sabbatical has begun! Until I get on that first plane, however, I won't feel like it's all ending. Or beginning. To be honest, I don't know what that will feel like. There are so many people and experiences I'll miss from Jeju. Certainly I'll miss my school and my 800 wonderful students. I'll miss my fellow yogis and yoga students. I'll miss my friends and co-teachers. I'll miss the beaches and mountains in Jeju, my tiny apartment, the kindness and sincerity of the Jeju people, the stares and random comments from agimas and agashis, the temples, sunsets, and crazy driving. But Jeju will always be in my heart, as will all those I've met here.

Our farewell dinner - they gave me flowers and some beautiful gifts

When I teach yoga, I usually begin the class with a meditation and intention setting. In my attempt to live a yogic lifestyle, I like to take this practice into my everyday life. As I embark on the next chapter, I know it will be full of new challenges, obstacles, and excitement. The intention I have set for the next 8 months is to surrender to the moment. I've planned all I can plan sitting at my computer in Korea. Now it's time to live it and be fully in the moment, every moment. I will be tested, there will be extreme ups and downs, and I'm ready for it all.

Mojitos to celebrate the last week of school with my best Jeju girlfriends - Julia & Cindy

In 4 days I sell my car, give up my apartment and head for Japan. I like to think that an adventure begins when you give up all of your keys. That, to me, is freedom. I'm looking forward to feeling it again.

I'll still be regularly online until around September 13th, so you can expect a few updates between now and then. Om Shanti

Yoga on Hamdeok Oreum

We all grieve in the same language

Today I remembered that, no matter where one goes, we're all just people. We all feel, we all experience new challenges, we all laugh, celebrate big moments, and we all grieve. Wednesday evening I received a phone call from a co-worker telling me that my former co-teacher of 1 1/2 years was no longer with us. My bereaved friend could hardly speak, let alone articulate the situation in English. In shock, I walked up 2 flights of stairs and knocked on Cindy's door, unable to process the news myself. While Cindy finished a long-distance phone call, I sat on her bed in stillness. After 5 minutes, Cindy hung up the phone, asked me "what's wrong", and I fell apart. No one told me the details of Kee Jeong's death, but I could only assume that it was the 3rd leading cause of death for Korean women: suicide. Cindy and I cried together for a while, then I went back to my room and fell into a troubled sleep. Thursday morning I awoke, a bit foggy, got ready for school and was about to walk out the door when I realized where I was going: to the classroom Kim Kee Jeong and I shared. She designed it, we took turns napping on the sofa, we shared intimate conversations, tears, so much laughter, and a common passion to teach children. The tears flowed freely as I remembered Kee Jeong's compassion and love and her giving spirit. She is the reason I fell so easily into teaching here, why I made friends with my co-workers so easily, her praise won us both extra teaching jobs, trainings, and competitions. This continued for the 30-minute drive to work and I finally pulled it together as I entered my school. But walking into the staff room, I found Choi Yoo Jin, the teacher who called me the previous night, and all it took was a glance to break down again. Yoo Jin and I started teaching in Korea on the same day almost 2 years ago. Kee Jeong showed us around the school, introduced us to other teachers, problem-solved, tutored, and mentored us as first-time Korean elementary school teachers. During the 2009 school year, the three of us were the English department. We went on school field trips together, out to dinner, on girl-scout trips, and to concerts. It is impossible to think of my time in Korea without thinking of Kee Jeong.

After school, I was invited to join the wake at Kee Jeong's Catholic Church with other teachers & staff. I gave the customary monetary donation to the family and payed my respects to an altar of flowers and her picture. I cried with her sister and prayed with my fellow teachers, ate rice and seaweed soup, and saw many other teachers from other schools who I have taught with or met through Kee Jeong. Even though I don't know the funeral customs in Korea or of Korean Catholics, I found that I felt the same as those grieving for a close friend beside me. I didn't need to saw anything, nor did they.

So the biggest question is: what happened? Why is she gone? I don't know. The general assumption seems to be that she took her own life because of the pressures and stress of being a 35 year old, unmarried, elementary school head-teacher. Although that may seem extreme to an onlooker, the stress here is like nothing I've ever experienced. It can be constant, continuous, and never-ending. As a yogi, I believe that we have the ability to create our reality and our reactions. I know Kee Jeong did her best to find happiness. She had a great Catholic faith and deep devotion to God. We talked for hours about being happy, about letting things go and not trying to control the uncontrollable things in life. I know about a lot of the pressures she felt, though surely not all. I also knew that as a world traveler, she had a hard time justifying the "Korean-style" pain she constantly felt. What I don't know is at what point it just became too much.

There are three things I will take away from this tragic day. One is a very real perspective of the suicide rate in Korea which was documented as 26 out of 100,000 people in 2008 and is increasing exponentially. The second is the fact that we're all just people and, no matter your culture, your ethnicity, or your background, we are all connected. No one I know better lived this than Kim Kee Jeong, a beautiful, compassionate soul who accepted and loved every person she met with equanimity. Finally, and most importantly, Kim Kee Jeong will inspire me to continue traveling and meeting new people and to share the enormous love she gave so freely to me and everyone.

Han-guk Dentistry

I think I've mentioned it before, but Korean dental care deserves a post of its own. The thing you should know if you haven't lived in Korea is that dental care is very hit-or-miss. There's a national problem currently receiving governmental attention that a lot of dentists here are fraudulent, overcharge, and WAY over diagnose dental work. Being American, it doesn't surprise me to hear that any doctor would try to make extra money, but it's definitely become a cause for alarm amongst Koreans and foreigners residing in Dae-ha-min-guk. There are horror stories of people being told they have 10-15 cavities, that they need thousands of dollars (hundreds of thousands of won) worth of dental work, that patients are in grave danger if they don't get said work done, etc, etc. I've also heard horror stories of patients receiving inadequate or inappropriate care, not getting proper anesthetic, you get the idea. HOWEVER, this post is not about these issues. This post is about my dentist and what I think the intent of the Korean dental system is.

I found my dentist recommended on a few websites for Jeju foreigners about 6 months ago. Again, being American, I have not had adequate health insurance since I finished university and, therefore, not had regular dental care. I put off going for the 1st year I was here, but finally sucked up my fears and procrastination and went during my February vacation. I don't actually know my dentist's name, but I believe his family name is Lee so we'll call him Dr. Lee. Dr. Lee started by giving me an x-ray and detailing - in very nice English - the work he think I needed including extraction of wisdom teeth, replacement of old amalgam fillings, and new teeth that needed fixing. We talked a lot about the different kinds of filling material, the costs with health insurance, the pain of treatments, etc. That day I ended with a tooth cleaning and the total cost including x-rays was around 60,000won ($60). The cleaning is actually not covered my insurance, but practically everything else is. In the past 5 months I've had all but 1 old filling removed, the new cavities drilled, one root canal and crown, and all new resin (the clear kind) fillings. The cost of each filling is 70,000won and that is because I opt for stronger resin fillings instead of amalgam (the silver kind which would cost me $5 each). The root canal was less than $100 total (over 5 appointments) and the crown cost $350. (Actually less since the won isn't as strong as the round dollar equivalent.) I've never waited more than 10 minutes, never had an appointment longer than 40 min, and never had more pain than an anesthesia injection. Three or four cavities were filled without anesthesia, in fact, and there was absolutely no pain.

So what prompts this cheery post today? Well, I've been milling over the wisdom teeth extraction since that initial visit in February. I've been wary to have the teeth taken out because of some re-constructive jaw surgery I had in my teens and the metal pins that are still embedded in my jaw. Dr. Lee noted my concern and offered to send my x-rays and his recommendation to me via email so I could contact my dentist at home and discuss the necessity of said treatment. So obviously, he's not trying to pull anything over on me. Plus, I can tell that the wisdom teeth are crowding the already unstable environment in my jaw and that they should come out. Preferably sooner than later. So today I finally made the decision to have them removed before I leave in late August. I had a follow-up appointment scheduled after last week's periodontal treatment and I agreed that the teeth would, indeed, be coming out. So Dr. Lee says, "Okay. We'll give you an anesthetic and then you need to wait 10 minutes for it to take affect." "I'm sorry? Right now? We're pulling it right now?" "Sure. There will be no discomfort and no interruption to your daily routine. Can you come in tomorrow for a follow-up?" "Uh..okay. How much will it cost?" "Oh, maybe 15,000won ($15) or less. It's very cheap with health insurance." "Right." 15 minutes later I left with a prescription for a mild pain-killer and anti-biotic (which cost me $2.30), a hole in my wallet of $6.30 for the tooth extraction, and an English letter detailing the possible side effects of the procedure.

I'm baffled by the simplicity of this system.

Maybe it's this easy at home if you have the right insurance and a doctor you trust, but to me it seems I've hit the dental jackpot. My co-teacher today was saying that people throughout Asia come to Korea to get their dental work done. Even with no health insurance it's still remarkably inexpensive and, well, easy.

So I'm gnawing at a piece of gauze, anesthetic 90% worn off, about to take said pills and eat my dinner of baked french fries (I thought soft would be good for the teeth, but apparently I'm allowed to eat normally 2 hours after the extraction). Just FYI, the second tooth is slightly impacted so there will be a small amount of surgical work to pull it out. I was told today by Dr. Lee that this will take a 30 minute appointment. And probably also cost less than $10.

There are a lot of things about "the Korean system" that drive me up the wall. I'll tell you about them someday if you want to hear. But this one, when done the way it was intended, is pretty awesome. If you live in Jeju - or even if you're visiting and in need of some dental work - go see my dentist. It's the Yein Dental Clinic on the 3rd floor next to Emart in Shin Jeju. I don't think I ever left a dentist happy before, but here I do every time. That is certainly a credit to Dr. Lee.

Follow-up 8/22: I had the 2nd tooth removed last Monday. It was as quick and painless as the first, healed in a week and cost 22,000won (about $20). I may just fly back to Korea every year for my dental work. It'll probably be cheaper than seeing a dentist in America.

In the moment

My goal for the summer: More of this! Cindy & I lounging at a new wine bar

In a surprising free 2 hours this morning, I will finally update my long absent blog. Time is slipping away faster than I can express. The past few months have been busy and stressful but wonderful. My community yoga class suddenly came to a halt 2 weeks ago as our space changed ownership and we were asked to leave within a week. It was not unexpected; we just thought we had a few more weeks. Yesterday I taught my last Korean yoga class to parents from my school and now my after-school obligations are finished. It feels good to have some evening free time and to have the free time at school that the final days always bring. First semester ends on July 21st but I have agreed to continue teaching from 3-5pm to my after-school students through August 20th. I am supposed to "be at school" anyway to fulfill contractual obligations, so at least I'm getting paid for it. Most of my friends are staying in Jeju next year which means they will take the long vacation in August and be leaving at the end of July. Jason will also be departing Jeju at the end of July so there will be numerous upcoming goodbyes. I'm very good at avoiding goodbyes, but I think it will be inevitable here. There are a few people I will see again, but many who will continue on their own journeys and whose paths I won't likely cross down the road. Most of that will be out of the way at the end of July, though, which leaves August for camping, beaching, and enjoying Jeju (and a little working). And, of course, packing, shipping, selling, donating, and getting rid of the stuff I've accumulate in 2 years. I plan to travel light into my big trip.

And here it is, the big trip:
(plane tickets have yet to be purchased, but here's how I'm laying it our for myself)
8/26-9/3 - A relaxing week in Japan with Cindy & Julia
9/3-9/5 - Back to Jeju to pick up trekking gear and say a final few goodbyes
9/5-9/11 - Up to Seoul, getting visas, seeing some friends
9/12-10/12 - Nepal: yoga & trekking with 2 Jeju friends
10/12-10/22 - Sightseeing in Rajasthan & Uttar Pradesh, India with a Seattle friend
10/22-11/7 - volunteering in Meghalaya, Northeastern India
11/7-12/7 - Ashram stays in Rishikesh, Northwestern India (billed as the "yoga capital of the world")
12/7-12/21 - Ashram stay in Kerala, Southwestern India
12/21-1/1 - "Christmas Vacation" - relaxing in Thailand
1/3-end of March 2011 - Yoga Teacher Training at Agama Yoga in Koh Phangan, Thailand

I've had 2 realizations as of late: The first being that I should really take advantage of every minute of being in Jeju and the second being that I should really let myself relax more and not feel so much obligation. The realization I have not had is how to balance those two. Being present, or being "in the moment" is always my goal, but, naturally, it's difficult when there is so much to plan and prepare and I'm constantly thinking about one thing or another. I'm sure this sounds familiar to you, dear readers, it's something we all struggle with. So I'm trying to stop using the word "should". I really shouldn't do anything. If I want to do something or I have to do something, I will. If I don't want to or I don't have to, I won't.

Case in point: I had decided about a month ago that I would stop studying Korean at the beginning of July because it takes up time I could be doing other things. Plus I don't really need to learn any more Korean since I'm leaving. However, last week I was introducing an American friend to my Korean study friends to match-make a new language exchange, and we all had such a great time hanging out and studying together that I've decided to continue studying. It's not that I feel I should, I've let that go. I just want to because I enjoy being around my friends and I enjoy speaking Korean. Once I let go of the notion that I "should" be studying, I no longer felt guilty making the decision one way or another.

The harder case: Do I want to continue studying yoga in Korea? Every time I think about going to a yoga class, I immediately think I "should" go. Not that I want to go or it would make me happy. The particular style of yoga that I practice here is centrally focused on back bending. I like back bending, but it puts a lot of stress on my shoulders and neck and I'm still healing those areas. There's also the Korean aspect that we should all be able to do the same things which makes it difficult to say to a teacher, "I can't". It's a cultural difference between Korea and every other country where I've studied yoga. And the language barrier makes that all the more difficult. Sometimes I leave the practice feeling refreshed and relaxed, and sometimes I leave feeling horrible, judgmental, and upset. But I just can't let go of the notion that I "should" be going to classes because of the unique experience of these teachers in Jeju and the fact that I'd like to be doing yoga everyday, especially now that I'm not teaching anymore. There is the fact that I'm headed into 7 months of introspection and yoga study which might make me feel better about not practicing now. But this is all based around the notion of what I feel I should or should not be doing.

This is such a good example of one of the fundamental Buddhist concepts: suffering. Buddhists and Yogis believe that suffering is something we create in our minds. Suffering is not what happens to us but our reactions to it. The way another person treats me does not create suffering, how I feel about it and how I react is what makes me unhappy. My feelings and reactions exist because of all my past interactions and relationships. Suffering is not something that happens to us but it is a choice we (usually unconsciously) make. The first step to eliminating this suffering is simply being aware of what our mind is doing. So that's where I am, seeing what's happening and trying to accept that I'm making myself feel bad (without making myself feel worse by judging myself!) Acceptance. That will be my goal for the remainder of my Jeju life.

I'd love to give you a recap of events in the last 2 months, but I honestly can't remember what I've been doing. Working a lot, teaching yoga, hiking oreums, drinking tea with friends, going to the beach. The biggie was the 2nd Women's Yoga Retreat (click here for pictures) that I led a few weekends ago. We had 22 beautiful participants and we all worked hard, endured the monsoon weather, and did a lot of yoga. And now I'm looking ahead, but still trying to stay in the moment, each moment.

Study partners & great friends: Ran Hee, So Hyeong, Rebekah & Eu Ddeum