Friday, February 27, 2009

An impromptu getaway to the Philippines

Cindy's quote for the trip:
"Life's tough when your biggest concern is watching for falling coconuts."


Last week Cindy said, "I'm going to the Philippines. Anybody want to come?" And I said, "Um...yes!" So the two of us bought some tickets and left 2 days later for a quick getaway to this tropical archipelago in south east Asia. Our departure was Thursday afternoon and we arrived in Manila to 30 degree C heat and smiling Filipino faces around 11pm that night. The flight from Seoul is only 3.5 hours with a 1 hour time difference, plus the hour flight from Jeju to Seoul. We stayed the first night in Manila at a 4th floor hostel above a fast food restuarant, a Starbucks, and a few shady looking window-less pubs. As we explored Ermiz, one of the more tourist friendly neighborhoods in Manila, Friday morning I found overwhelmingly positive, caring people and severe poverty. The walk along the harbor afforded views of Manila Bay and her population who were lazing in the morning heat and offering us various services including fresh mango and pineapple, head massages, and boat rides.

A jeepney, converted war jeep in Manila - they are decorated and used for public transport

We packed up and found a bus down to Busuanga in the south of Luzon Island. The bus ride was nicely air conditioned, but very full of both passengers and vendors selling local food and drink who would get on at every stop and hop off a few miles later. The local language in Manila is Tagalog which is a mix of Spanish and indigenous languages, but there is English thrown in and everyone speaks at least some English which made it incredibly easy to get around. From the bus stop in Busuanga we were herded by more vendors to the pier and ferry terminal.

Our bangca to Mindoro

We decided to check out Oriental Mindoro, the closest resort area by boat, and boarded a "bangca" for the 2 hour boat ride to Sabang and Little Laguna where we spent the next 3 days on a beach with a San Miguel beer in hand. The rest was a wash of sleeping, swimming, sun-bathing, drinking, and eating local and international food. My favorites were the fresh pineapple and mango and the $1 beer. The people were incredibly friendly and also very persistent. Everywhere you go someone is asking you, "Miss, want to buy a _______*? Maybe later? Maybe tomorrow?," (*insert local handcraft or service here). We stayed on our little beach most of the 3 days with the occasional exploratory walk around the area and a sunset kayak trip. Sunday was Cindy's birthday which we began with incredible Filipino coffee on the veranda and ended with a fantastic dinner including Kahlua cake and carrot cake. Monday we made the same trek back to Manila and I flew out around midnight. It was a quick trip, but I'm really glad I got some sun and a few days out of Korea before school starts next Monday. Check out the links to the right for more photos.


A trek in the hills

The first of many San Miguels: "The only beer that nourishes true Filipino friendships"


Kayak trip

Coffee on the veranda, a nice birthday treat for Cindy!

And the rest of her birthday looked a lot like this...


Monday, February 16, 2009

Fire Festival 2009

Last weekend was Jeju's Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival which means New Year Full Moon Fire Festival. On the Lunar calendar New Years Day was January 26th and this festival celebrates the first New Moon of the lunar year. Basically, a whole oreum went up in choreographed fireworks, torch flames, and explosives, "burning away all misfortune and the attraction of tremendous luck" for 2009. It was awesome. Most Korean provinces have a fire festival of their own, but Jeju's specifically is said to attract the most spectators. Thousands were in attendance and the foreigner community was especially well represented.

The sun setting over the numerous festival tents

Roast pork, a festival specialty

The oreum lit up as the festivities began (imagine epic music and dramatic Korean narration...)

The procession of torches

Ready, set...

GO!


As you can imagine, it was hot and smoky

After the fire there was much traditional drumming, singing, and dancing, drinking, and eating. It was an unforgettable evening spent with wonderful friends and an incredible energy.


Saturday, February 7, 2009

Back to school...sort of

Jason & I on top of the Oreum slated to go up in flames next weekend...Fire Festival!


A beautiful walk at Gwakji Beach


I spent the rest of my vacation in blissful relaxation. Jason and I hiked up Hallasan again and, as usual, the weather cooperated. Other than that, watching movies, catching up with vacationing friends and crocheting have been highest on my priority list!

Another hike up Halla:

snowpacks!

You could barely tell if the horizon was the ocean or clouds


Gwakji beach

Chagwido (Chagwi Island) in the distance

We took Charlie (a friend's dog) on a 5 hour adventure walk


Last week I went back to school and taught...count them...3 classes the entire week! Due to many circumstances I won't bore you with, I'm not really teaching next week either. I'll just go to school and spend the time running errands, studying Korean, and watching movies. Then we have 2 weeks at school with no kids to transition into next semester which begins March 2nd. I'm getting a new English classroom and 2 new co-teachers next month as well. But I'm back to my regular schedule of teaching yoga, going to Buddhist Temple and meeting with my Korean friends. Not to mention enjoying the sunny weather with walks to Sarabong, adventurous hikes in the hills around my apartment, and beach trips.

Nearby Chagwido, dried squid and pensions...looks a little Mediterranean

February is an exciting month to be on Jeju. There are many "Kuts," traditional Shamanic Festivals to welcome different Gods to Jeju. The Shaman tradition is one of the original religions in Korea along with Buddhism and Confucianism. Shamanic customs have been preserved especially well on Jeju. The season for Spring Kuts started last week and almost every village has their own festivities. I went to a big one at City Hall on Friday and got to share in the soju drinking (offering to the Gods) and parading down to watch traditional singing and dancing. Next weekend is the Fire Festival where an oreum (small mountain) is lit on fire! I've been told it's the best festival on Jeju.

Traditional masks

The offering table for the Spring Gods


We shared in the offerings of soju and even got on TV! They love foreigners...


Village dancers

There were hundreds of drummers from each village in Jeju City

The parade stretched out before us...

And behind...

Dancing and celebrating at Gwangdeokno

I would like to quickly clear up something about which I get asked constantly...I am not dating John. John is my nam-dong-saeng, my little brother in Korean terms. It may appear that we're together, but we are just good friends. I have been dating someone for a few months, but I'm not gonna shout that out over the internet. I bet if you do some quick detective work you can figure it out...