Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Tar, Chalk and Accountability: Three necessities of Indian Education



Today Sister Helen and I visited St. Anne’s School for the 2nd time. Last week we came in the evening and talked with the teachers and students who come for evening school. Today we set off from Bellefonte in the jeep after breakfast for a surprise visit to the head administrator. The road to St. Anne’s is a perfect example of the quality of roads in the northeast. At the widest places the road is what we could call in America a 1-lane road and yet cars come and go in multitudes in both directions. The smell of smoldering tar comes every mile at least, as construction rambles along. On the side or in the middle of the road is a pile of larger rocks, then a pile of smaller gravel, and in some places a pile of sand. You might see a number of boys beating the rocks with a hammer or chisel to break them up into the gravel that is then melted on cast iron atop roadside fires. Often there are women sitting or standing, watching the work and just as often, women are participating in this process one way or another. From one side of the street to the other, men and boys carry this “tar” in buckets hanging on sticks and either hand pour it directly onto the road or pour it into a large spinning cylinders (imagine a small cement maker). This morning at one such work site, we sat behind a few construction trucks waiting for them to move to let traffic by. In the meantime one small car and one jeep squeezed by us, mostly driving off the road, and the cars behind us honked the soundtrack of India in impatience. Of course, there are no traffic diversions or flaggers and you simply drive over the hot tar as it sets and over the more manageable piles of gravel. Or you swerve off the road to avoid colliding. On the way to St. Anne’s, there is one patch of totally unpaved road, only red clay and rock with 1 foot deep potholes. In the US, we’d call it off-roading. It is no wonder most people here have either jeeps or very compact cars.
We arrived at St. Anne’s Day School at 9:45am where students were waiting for their 10am classes to begin. There were no teachers there yet, however, only the administrator. A few rolled in after we did and a few came in about 10:15. Two teachers did not show up at all and I overheard that they’ve been absent for more than 2 weeks. At this point in the year, though (the school calendar is Feb through mid-Dec), there seems to be no point in trying to change behavior patterns or hold people accountable. Teachers are supposed to sign-in in a hand-written ledger every morning and afternoon, but they often just lie about what time they come and go. When I asked about the possibility of finding more accountable teachers, I was told that due to low school enrollment there wasn’t enough money to pay teachers who were more qualified or accountable (none of them have an education degree and only 2 have Bachelor’s degrees). Sounds like a perfect catch-22. Not to mention that it’s pretty typical for things to start 1-2 hours after they are scheduled in India. If you’ve been to a 3rd world country, you’ll know what I mean.
The administrator, a beautiful Khasi woman, had asked Sister Helen a few months back about the possibility of BCC taking over the school as it is not being well managed or attended. Today they discussed the details and what that would mean for the school and for BCC. There is a lot of bureaucracy, of course, and details to figure out, but Sister Helen has agreed to run a day school there, as well as continue the evening programs. There are currently about 60 students enrolled in secondary school, 5th – 10th grade, in an area where hundreds should be attending. I never did get a clear answer if there was a public school nearby but I’ve been told repeatedly that village public schools are a waste of space and money and they don’t begin to supply the education that is needed. The Indian government claims to be committed to making free public education for every child in India but that will take a very long time and as of now is seriously lacking. So the hope is that with better management of the school, better resources, and more qualified and accountable teachers, attendance will rise and the surrounding villages will appreciate and support the school. The sisters have seen it happen in other communities.
The school itself is “being renovated” which means that it looks like a construction zone and that work is slow and little noticeable. In the front entrance there are about 20 bags of cement, lying here and there are 4 foot high piles of wood and debris, and the electrical wires hang low enough for the Khasis to have to duck - and most of them are at least a foot shorter than me. From what I saw there were 4 classrooms being used with one catch-all room not being taught in. The vision you conjure up of a classroom, though, is probably far from the reality here. By classroom, I mean 4 concrete walls, 1 to 2 iron-barred windows, long wooden benches and tables that hold 2-4 students each, a black board and an empty teacher’s desk. There is one box of chalk in the school and students are sent to ask for it a piece at a time. This morning I saw a few teachers come take pens out of their purses a while after class had begun as there are none in the classrooms. I have been asked to teach a training to 15-20 teachers in 2 weeks and realize that they’ll be a far cry from the ultra-media heavy teaching tools we employed at trainings in Korea. The administration is a small room behind the chapel, which also seems to have rooms upstairs, but the whole building is currently under construction. Sitting in the asymmetrical concrete office, hammering overhead shook the whole room and pieces of loose concrete crumbled overhead. The room itself spills over with unfinished bricks and rock in the “storage area” where student’s notebooks are piled. Teachers’ books are piled into another tight corner.
After the meeting we were treated to very sweet tea and local treats – we can’t escape meeting anyone without accepting that nonnegotiable offer – and on the drive back we stopped into the nearby North Eastern Hill University (NEHU) for a quick driving tour. Sister Helen and I talked about student interns at Indian University and whether they offer student teaching possibilities or internships. It sounded like that is not something that happens normally but Sister Helen has some contacts in the Education Department and is trying to convince them to start a program or offer their support to BCC.
Our days have been packed and I’m not even going to try offering a play-by-play of life in the convent and Shillong. One highlight was taking 2 Bellefonte house girls to our friends’ hotel to learn in the kitchen for a few hours. It was an exciting day for them and they didn’t want to leave. Circus and I stayed for a luxurious dinner with our international family (photo here). Evening meetings are not a possibility this week, however, as the protests have increased and they are imposing 7pm-5am road blockages throughout the state.  On Sunday, the protestors burned a brand-new BSNL cell phone tower and mobile station. This is supposed to be the busy season in Shillong, with the Durga Puja state holiday next week and the best weather, and tourism is reportedly down 70-80% in the state. Everything is closing early to allow people to get home by 7pm. This week there have only been 3-4 construction workers at BCC, I think both because of the protest actions and the unreliability of the workers, and Sister Helen has complained to the contractor to find new blood. Things like this just happen all the time in India, though, and projects take a long time to complete. Fortunately, patience is a Catholic virtue that the nuns have mastered.

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