It's almost October already!

Fall is rolling in here on Jeju. The weather turned a few days ago and all of a sudden it's cool weather and no humidity. Hooray! I don't really want summer to go, but I can deal with some cool weather. We've had a bit of rain, but mostly overcast or partly sunny skies. (I'm from Seattle, we have 20 different ways to say that!) The leaves should be changing color soon and from what I hear it is a spectacular sight.

Last week ended with an impromptu meeting at the Education Office (I'll refer to it as POE - Province of Education) about an upcoming Foreign Language Festival on Jeju in November. About 50 English teachers came to the meeting and we organized some booths from the different countries represented. Australia only had 1 native member, so I volunteered to join the ranks along with 4 other Americans. So I'll be representing my Aussie family and friends at the 2nd Annual Jeju Foreign Language Festival on November 7th. If there's anything I should be sure to pass on to the classes by all means let me know! After the meeting about 30 of us went to a Pizza place in the city. Julia and I went for a quick beer, then met Cindy and headed down to Yeongyeon for an outdoor concert of traditional Korean music and classical Western music. (pictures above) The night was clear and chilly and the waves crashed into the shore as a full chorus and orchestra played the last 3 movements of the Carmina Burana. It was spectacular. After the concert I went to "the makeli place" with my usual friends and some other foreign teachers who've been here awhile. We drank Makeli, a rice wine that has a little bubble to it, out of individual bowls and ate side dishes (as always) of kimchi, soybeans, tofu, and radish. The restaurant had a great traditional ambiance and was very relaxing. Makeli definitely tastes better than soju and it's effect is a bit more like champagne. And it's very cheap.

Saturday we all slept in and went into City Hall for a brunch at the newly opened Ti Amo coffee. They make fresh Belgian waffles topped with gelato, whipped cream, fruit, and paired with a cup of coffee. See photo collage for the full experience.

Then we headed out to Jeju National University for a Kotesol meeting. We met a bunch of other foreigners there and came back into city hall to continue our evening. This island is getting smaller by the minute. I run into someone I know every day in the city and I'm meeting and getting to know more and more of the foreigners who live here.

Anyway, I decided to check out a classical music thing at Jeju National Museum just outside the city. It turned out to be three outstanding opera singers who gave an intimate recital and knocked my socks off! The soprano (sorry, didn't get their names) sang my favorite aria (Queen of the Night Vengeance Aria from The Magic Flute) and it was the best performance I've ever heard. And in the traditional Korean style, she was stunningly beautiful and her dress was exquisite. Also a great Nessun Dorma by the tenor and an encore of traditional Korean music that the audience stood and sang along with. There are different performances and showings there every weekend so I'm going back again, definately. Saturday night the Led Zeppelin, a bar in City Hall frequented by the foreigner (way-goog in Korean) community, was hosting an Open Mic night. The performers were really fun and just about everyone I know on the island was there. Julia and I stayed out waaaaaaaaaay too late, ending the evening with Kim-bap (Nori rolls Korean style) and Ramyen (Ramen...but oh so good). Our friend Alexa had driven into the city, but none of us were in a condition to drive home so we used a service they have here where you call a company and someone comes to drive you home in your own car. It's very affordable and convenient. Someone should start that at home.

Sunday morning we got up early and took the bus out to Yeongshil, one of the 4 trails up Hallasan (Mt. Halla). Halla is the tallest peak in South Korea and it's incredibly gorgeous. The weather on Sunday was perfect for hiking, partly sunny, cool but not cold, light breeze. 5 of us from my building went and had a really great time. The bus from the city dropped us off 2.5km below the entrance to the trail, so we got to warm-up by climbing up to the trailhead. The trail itself was a good incline mostly paved by wooden steps and lava rocks carved into stairs. Everything is still a lush green from the summer but the colors are just starting to turn and we plan on going back and hiking a different route in a few weeks to enjoy what is said to be a spectacular sight. I'm really glad we did go when it was still green so I can go and enjoy the colors of each season. The full summit trip takes 8-9 hours and you have to reach the peak by 1pm since the parks all close at dusk. That'll be an early day but I'm looking forward to it.

So now we've been to 2 of the 3 UNESCO World Heritage sights on the island. Yet to go are the Underground Lava Caves. There are also 368 oreums, or secondary volcanoes, on the island and those are fun day trips and short hikes. And 13 beaches, 12 of which I have yet to see. And numerous temples, parks, museums, waterfalls, plantations, etc, etc, etc. There's plenty to do here on Jeju. Don't think I'll be getting bored anytime soon. It's almost manderin picking season and we look forward to observing this fall tradition (kinda like apple picking in New England). And a cultural festival next weekend. And a pumpkin festival sometime around Halloween (which they don't celebrate here). Whoo! One day at a time...

I posted more pictures on my kodak site. I took a friend's pictures as well, so there are more of me from her camera from the last month. Check it out...

http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLandingSignin.jsp?Uc=ungl5o5.4yqdzokx&Uy=-w1sbo5&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&UV=783503506745_171262876209&localeid=en_US

A lazy weekend + My first full week of school

Last weekend was the most relaxing yet. Friday night we went out to a few bars in Jeju City including a brew pub called Modern Time where we enjoyed delicious microbrews. The beer in Jeju is reminiscent of Busch Ice or Bud Light. Some are also lemon flavored, kinda like Sprite and light beer. It does leave something to be desired. But this beer was in the wonderful, classic European Microbrew style. After french fries (oh so good), popcorn, kimchi, and beer, Cindy and I wandered City Hall area, the most happenin' place to hang out at night. We found a small bar called The Doors. We bought imported German beer and sat on the rooftop patio relaxing. It was early so no one else was there. Just us, beer, and great classic American rock music. Then we ran into some hagwon (private language school) teachers and had a late dinner with them at a Korean BBQ restaurant.

Mmmm...beer and french fries!

Saturday I slept in (!) did some yoga, and went for a run with Julia. It was a cool, humid day, and we sweat our buns off. Cindy and I went into Emart for some things and had a relaxed dinner at home followed by a bad Kevin Costner movie that we bought at Emart.

Sunday we debated hiking Mt. Halla. There are 2 hikes to the summit that are about 9 hours round trip and 2 shorter hikes about 2 hours each. We didn't get up in time and instead we brunched on the last of my Seattle coffee, pastries and fruit and went to Iho Beach which is the closest beach to Jeju City. The weather this weekend was overcast and raining on and off. We planned on swimming but it was a bit too cold for our blood. So we sat on the beach and enjoyed the quiet day. In the afternoon we played ping-pong at the high school where we live. Then a friend invited me up for fresh caught fish, raspberry wine, and a movie. It was truly a relaxing weekend, something I've been badly needing.

So now it's Tuesday of my first "full" week of school. The first week I didn't teach on Monday, and the last two weeks we've had holidays. Next week is also a holiday weekend, but after that we're solid until Christmas. I'm really settling into teaching and having fun with the kids and the other teachers. I know I've said this before, but everyone here is so friendly and supportive. They really try and communicate with me in what ever capacity their English skills lie and I'm learning Korean once a week with a teacher from my school. I feel like I live here. I get paid this week and hopefully will get a cell phone, and internet in the next week or two. I'm not really in a hurry, I've been getting on fine without them.

Some kids at my school were in an English Play Competition. They put on "Don Quixote". These are pictures from their dress rehearsal.

A long weekend and a few cultural differences

(left: My 6th graders got to make up a vacation story about a place in WA state)

My long weekend is drawing to a close. I had a great 5 day Chusok Weekend. Schools typically get 1 day off for this Korean Thanksgiving holiday but my principal decided that we needed 3 extra days off, giving us a wonderful 5 day weekend. So I have yet to work a full week, nor will I this week. But I really love my school, the teachers and kids, and my schedule seems to be okay.

My planning time is lumped into 1 day every week (different every other week) and I haven’t worked either of those days yet as they fit into my schedule, so I’ve been very busy teaching and planning in a small amount of time. And we have another holiday October 3…eventually I will work a whole week.

(My desk and my book projects)

Some small differences in South Korea:

1. Korean Ages. When you’re born in Korea you are 1 year old. On January 1st, you turn 2 regardless of your birthday. So everyone born in the same year has the same birthday. The kids are a bit younger than I’m used to as far as years in school since, for example, the 6th graders are 12, but only 10 or 11 in US years. The big kicker here is that I’ll be 29 in Korean years on January 1st of this upcoming year. I don’t know if I’m ready to be 29 yet! Ah well, I’m sure I’ll get used to it.

2. Toilet Paper. Korean toilets were not made to flush paper. There are small wastebaskets next to each toilet which are t.p. receptacles. I keep forgetting this and habitually put my used t.p. into the toilets. I’m sure I’m going to cause a big clog one of these days. Also, teachers are given a roll of toilet paper at school that you take with you to the bathroom. There is no t.p. in the individual stalls, but one large roll as you walk in the bathroom. This is the lovely, school grade 1-ply. Our rolls are cushy 2-ply. But you have to remember to grab the roll on your way to the bathroom! I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gotten halfway down the hall only to turn back and grab my t.p.

3. Island Views. From my front door I can see the sunset over the ocean. From my terrace, I can see the sunrise over Mount Halla, Jeju’s volcano (when I wake up that early). Actually, I can see that one from my bed in the morning. I officially love living on an island.

I got my ARC (Alien Registration Card) last week! This is exciting because it takes much time and paperwork to obtain. So now I have only 1 verifying document to submit (plus my US tax exemption forms) and I’m free and clear to live and work here. I can also get my cell phone and internet. Well, 2 of the 3 internet providers on the island are currently on probation for selling customer information and I believe 1 of those is the only provider who gives service to my location. So I’ll have to wait another 2 weeks for that. But cell phone! Yay!

My friend John came back in town this weekend to take care of his Education Office paperwork. Friday (after yoga with Julia) we ran around the city all day signing papers and filling out information. I was his tour guide around the city and actually surprised myself at how well we found everywhere we needed to go. Between the buses, inexpensive taxis, and walking, this island is very accessible. Friday night we had a potluck at my building to get to know our residents. About half of us came and we had great food and a fun time. Then everyone went out and I stayed home for a quiet, early night to myself.

Saturday we celebrated Chusok with a big dinner at my apartment. Marcie made tempura sweet potatoes, yams, and zucchini. Mike & John made Cucumber Noodles, and I made tofu stew and sautéed tofu with veggies. We drank soju and Korean Plum Wine and had a nice, relaxing evening.

Sunday my friends and I took a bus out to the east coast of Jeju Island to the town of Seongsan. There is a large hydro-volcanic peak/crater there called Ilchulbong, commonly referred to as Sunrise Peak. So we hopped on the 1 ½ hour bus ride from Jeju City and headed east, not really knowing where we were going, where we were staying, or how to get to this crater. But as we stepped off the bus in the sleepy coastal town, an elderly Korean man with very good English escorted us to a Minbak (like a small, inexpensive hostel), showed us where to have dinner, and told us when to leave for our Sunrise Expedition. (left: John and our friendly tour guide in Saengsan) I am constantly reminded how helpful and generous Korean culture is. Every person to whom you ask a question tries to help you regardless of language barriers or how time consuming your quest is. This was just another example of Korean hospitality.

After we settled into our Minbak, for which we paid $50 total between 6 of us, John, Mike and Julia decided to climb the peak. Cindy, Marci and I walked around the touristy part of town around the Ilchulbong entrance and browsed the local Jeju merchandise. We met at a local seafood restaurant for dinner (they’re all seafood restaurants) and had a huge seafood stew with every kind of shellfish you can imagine. I had rice and kimchi with the traditional accoutrements, which was enough for me. Then we went down to the beach with Hallasan Soju and Orange Fanta, our new favorite drink, and Julia, Mike and John swam in the surf and lit off fireworks. We came back to the Minbak and watched CSI:Las Vegas in English for an hour. None of us have watched TV or heard that much English in over 2 weeks and we were glued to it.

Monday morning we awoke at 5am for our trek up the peak. The walk is paved with lava rock stairs carved out of the mountain. It was about a 20 minute walk up in the cloudy, misty weather but the humidity abounded as usual and we were hot and sticky by the time we got to the top. It was beautiful watching the sky lighten up and seeing the colors of the sky, the ocean, and the green crater. Unfortunately, the sun could not be seen behind the thick cloud cover, but it was still breathtaking. I plan to go back when I can see the sunrise, maybe in the spring.

We all got breakfast at GS 25 (Korea’s 7-11) and took the bus back to Jeju City at 8:30am. It was a very fun and spontaneous trip and we all had a great time. All in all, I think I spent about 30,000 Won ($30) including food, bus, and accommodations. I’ve definitely found some awesome friends who are ready for adventures and surprises and are open to whatever comes along.